I suppose you could argue that people didn't normally need to be so observant in telling the sexes apart as we have to be in these days of unisex fashions.
That's absolutely true. In an culture where dress is highly differentiated, and you expect it to tell you not only someone's sex but their social status, nationality and often their occupation and marital status, you generally don't look past the packaging. You see the clothes, you assume that the person inside them matches. In fact, people who are used to clothing giving clear gender signals often find it quite difficult to identify gender without those signals. In the early years of the hippie era, I remember (yes, I am that old) a lot of harrumphing as people cried 'These hippies, you can't tell the boys from the girls!' And it wasn't a joke; they really couldn't. Being used to the equations
'short hair + trousers + plain colours + no ornaments or surface decoration + flat practical shoes = male' and
'long, probably curled/waved/put up hair + make-up + bright colours + skirts + possibly frills, patterns, jewellery + high heels = female', when faced with young people wearing sandals, beads, flowers in long un-dressed hair, etc they were honestly at a loss. But after a couple of years, everyone got their eye in and it was no longer difficult.
There's a great story of the 18th-century French explorer Bougainville's expedition to Tahiti in 1766-69. Unbeknown to anybody, the servant of one of the expedition scientists was a girl, Jeanne Baret. She dressed as a boy and behaved as a boy, and nobody guessed a thing till they landed in Tahiti - where the Tahitians, to whom the conventions of her dress and behaviour conveyed no clues, simply asked 'Why only one woman among so many men?'.
(BTW, it may be just me but I found Paltrow far more convincing - and rather more attractive - as 'Thomas Kent' than as 'the beautiful Viola de Lesseps'!)
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